Taiwan Travel Guide – Hualien

Located on a strip of land between the Pacific Ocean and the Central Mountain Range, Hualien is considered one of the most pleasant cities in Taiwan. Many tourists visit the city to enjoy the scenery and fresh air and also to tour the famous Taroko Gorge, which is a few kilometers north of the city. That’s what I did and I definitely recommend you add it to your itinerary if you have the time.

Getting There: Transportation Options

Train / Bus

There are frequent trains from Taipei to Hualien railway station (花蓮車站) and, depending on the type of train, the journey can take from two to four and a half hours. Express trains (Taroko Express) take 2 hours and cost NT$440. The train follows the coast for part of the journey, and the left side of the train offers the best views. There are also frequent trains to Taitung (about 3 hours and NT$400) and, less frequently, to Kaohsiung and then Tainan.

During peak travel season, train tickets are sometimes are hard to get. It is recommended to book your trip early to ensure your seat. There is also the option to take a bus to Luodong and switch to the local train to Hualien. Combined tickets for bus and train can be bought at the Kamalan counter at Taipei bus station and the Capital bus counter at City Hall Station. The trip costs around NT$220 and buses and trains are frequent, so there is no need to book in advance.

Plane

Domestic airlines connect Hualien Airport (HUN) with all of Taiwan’s major cities. It is a 50-min flight between Hualien and Taipei’s Sungshan Airport, e.g. with UniAir from NT$1,800-3,300 (return). There are regular flights between Hualien and Hong Kong offered by HK Express. Flights on this route tend to be cheaper than between Taipei and Hong Kong.

By boat

Port of Hualien (花蓮港) serves both cargo and passenger vessels and hosts lines which bring in passengers from Australia, Cambodia, Canada, Egypt, Fiji, Germany, Guam, Hong Kong, India, Indonesia, Israel, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, Panama, Papua New Guinea, Philippines, Russia, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, Solomon Islands, Spain, South Africa, Sri Lanka, United States, Venezuela, and Vietnam.

Getting Around Hualien

If you are planning to rent a motorbike to visit Taroko Gorge, that’s a good way to get around Hualien as well. Alternatively, a bicycle is a good option. The hostel where I stayed offered free use of bicycles so that’s what I did but you should be able to find rental shops near the TRA station as well. Depending on the weather and how much you like to walk, Hualien may or may not be considered a walkable city. I walked from my hotel near the station to the main night market and a bit further to the coast, which was about a 30 minute walk. Still, I would recommend a bicycle, because there is a fairly nice and long hike and bike pathway along the coast that is worth exploring and that would definitely be too much walking.

Things to See and Do in Hualien

I spent most of my spare time in Hualien exploring the coast. After I finished my trip to Taroko Gorge, I rode along the coast in my rented scooter before returning it the next morning. Mostly I stuck to the area north of the city. There are some scenic overlooks with pull offs to park and explore by foot. The Qinshui Cliff and Chungte Recreations areas were especially nice.

I also spent a full day exploring the closer coastal section by bicycle. Even with a bicycle, it took most of the day to see everything and I could have spent two days instead if I went at a more leisurely pace and made longer stops (e.g., to enjoy the local parks, cafes, etc.). I also only went as far north as the Chishingtan (Qixingtan) Scenic Area (which was very nice), but there may have been more to explore further north. I didn’t really explore south much so I am not sure what of interest might lie in that direction.

Other activities in and around Hualien include mountain hiking, beaches, hot springs, river tracing, and whale and dolphin watching. I didn’t do any of those, but if you have the time, ask around with the local travel companies. You might also check out a professional baseball game if in season. You could also visit Farglory Ocean Park (M-F 09:00-17:00, Sa Su 08:30-17:00), Hualien’s biggest man-made tourist attraction. As well as ferris wheel and cable car, the park contains eight zones showing different aspects of marine life. Children, in particular, will have an enjoyable time but for the more adventurous or those wanting a more local experience, there are many places that are much cheaper and provide a better experience of Taiwan.

Miscellaneous

The Dongdamen Night Market (東大門夜市) (from the railway station south, following the main road towards the beach, 40 min walk) is the main market of interest. The back lane is dedicated to indigenous aboriginal vendors and features live music and dance performances on weekends. There are also a lot of restaurants to choose from on that main road, including one that offers the Hualien specialty wontons. The hosts at the hostel where I stayed recommended Hua Lien Xiang Bian Shi, which I tried and enjoyed (twice!).

Final Thoughts

I enjoyed my stay in Hualien and recommend it as both a destination in of itself and a base for exploring Taroko Gorge.

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